This is an update to the traditional desk design with some features that make it more useful for a home office environment full of electronics :-
Space to run multiple power cords and wires instead of single wire keyholes-
A \"power shelf\" under the table that allows storage and access to surge protectors, power supplies, etc. -
File drawer drawers that can be easily converted to backpack/briefcase storage. -
Curved table top that is allowed close to the door (
Not hitting the corner)
The project is made of 3/4, 1/2 and 1/4 plywood.
The parts are connected by the butt, the butt joint and the pocket screw.
1/2 plywood-1/2 sheets
1 1/4 plywood-1/2 sheet Iron-
About 50 feet 1 1/2 inchcoarse pocket screws-
About 25 inchcoarse pocket screws-
Drawer slide about 24 inch-
Ball bearing is best
12 drawer handles6 sandpaper -
If you use a painted device CNC router with 4x8 bed 220 upper and lower cutting router bits, 1/4 sand wood glue varnish or other finishes for your choice of painter tape foam brush
If your CNC router has the strength of deep cutting, it would be better to have a compression bit)
Router bit v-1/8-Cut the router bit (any size)
Sanding machine screwdriver bit pocket screw fixture and drill bit for application of edgeband clampsSoftware. Any 3D or 2D vector drawing software CAD software can make the cut filesI selection slightly shorten the height of the standard 60 long x 58x32x29.
I also bent the front of the table.
By making the Desktop only 28 inch wide in the corner, the table can be placed next to the door, and since the width is short, there is no 90 degree angle to poke you when you pass.
Without sacrificing too much space, the surface makes a smaller impression.
Both drawers on both sides are very shallow but open very far away.
This allows horizontal storage of content, which is more effective for tablets, mobile phones, charging, headphones, etc.
Because paper storage is less important.
Two \"file\" drawers can be converted for other purposes.
A \"file drawer\" can be used for zero, one or two sets of folders, simply entering and leaving the round steel 3/16 \"bar through the holes inside the drawer.
The drawers are deep and wide enough to accommodate backpacks and shoulder bags that are usually brought into the office.
To maintain the weight of the modern office payload, the drawer needs to be sturdy.
In order to do this, I used the door and the structure of the drawer box.
1/4 inch plywood drawer bottom.
I added a large rectangular hole on the desktop with three lines instead of a round power cord key hole
The hole in the lid fell.
Please note that the top must be flipped to cut the pocket of the wirehole-
This is the blue line in the first photo.
Hole is a 8 inch wide power shelf that removes all power supplies, surge protectors and other electronic devices from the floor and desktop.
Shelves are slotted to help with ventilation.
The construction method is mine now-
Favorite: Blind eye insertion joint enhanced by pocket screws.
The pin joint ensures that the piece is assembled into a cube-
If your plywood is not deformed!
Increased strength of pocket screws, simplified assembly
All you need to do is clamp the parts you connect until the screws are driven --
There is no need to clamp the whole assembly and wait for the glue to dry.
I am now trying to get all my hardware in advance and include the accessory location in the plan.
This allows me to use v-
Ensure that hardware is placed quickly and accurately during assembly.
Now, all I have to do is draw the part in the chosen 2D or 3D design software-
I designed this directly in the CAM program (Vcarve)
But the size-driven CAD tool is a better option because the size needs to be fine-tuned to match the exact plywood thickness that may change, and the part can share the defined offset, so, it is unlikely that an error will occur in the location of the Mao/Mao connection.
When creating a CAD file, I also created small, mush and mush parts that can be used to test fit.
I will run the file on the CNC router first to make sure my joints are good and tight.
Now we let the CNC router play its magic.
I found that a few of my plywood had been twisted before I had time to cut. Arrgh.
Although it is possible to flatten the plywood for cutting, the plywood will rebound once removed.
This is usually not a problem for smaller parts, but it is problematic for tables of this size.
I forged it and later caused some problems during the assembly phase.
I first use the v bit to score where the hardware fits (
The center of the drawer handle hole, drawing the Sliding Center.
For 3/4 plywood parts, mortices are all hidden, so I can use the same 1/4 bits I use on the cut-out profile of the dog\'s ear pocket.
Because the drawers are 1/2 and 1/4 plywood, the position of 1/4 is too large for the insert pin and too wide for the pocket of 1/4 plywood width (
1/4 of plywood is worse than 1/4 of wine)
, I do these cuts with the 1/8 bits I trust.
Now that all the parts are cut, it\'s time to assemble. -
Iron and trim on the sides.
If you don\'t have an edge belt trimmer tool, you should probably buy one for a part of this size. -
Using the pocketscrew fixture, drill the pocket between the mortises of the 3/4 plywood part. -
Polish and finish the part, be careful not to apply the finish on any surface that will be glued.
The painter\'s tape will be helpful here. -
Dry Fit of whole assembly
Connect the hardware to each part. Yes-
You can install the drawer slide before assembling! -
Remove and reassemble with glue and pocket screws.
Use the bar clip to make sure the parts are flush.
After tightening the screws, the fixture can be removed. -
Connect the electronic shelves with pocket screws. -
Assemble the drawer box with glue.
When drying, you need some clips or wear DingTalk to hold the parts together.
It is a good idea to verify that the sides are square before and during the DingTalk or clamping.
See photos of this step to see the drawer box structure.
Wait for the glue to harden completely and connect the slide. -
Drill 3/16 holes for file rack slides.
The length of the Cut3/6 steel rod is slightly smaller compared to the width of the drawer.
Hit in place with a hammer and punch.
The cooperation should be tight, so there is no need for glue. if necessary, you can dig out the rod in the future.
Each drawer box and countersunk drill have two holes to accommodate screws that secure the drawer face in the drawer box. -
From top to bottom, apply a small amount of express mail (
Hot glue gun, Super Glue)
The back of the drawer and attached to the box.
When the glue is hardened, fix the clips and screws on the surface of the drawer in place. -
Drill holes for drawer handles and accessories.
If I had purchased the handle in advance, I would have drilled holes in the router for a long time! That\'s it!
The biggest trouble with this project is the plywood twist.
The larger the paper being cut, the more distortion it may be a problem.
Because mortises controls how parts are assembled, you cannot adjust the assembly to accommodate the distortion.
Also, some inserts may be too deep or too shallow.
I was able to fake it by grinding some tension and applying some extra clamping force and rubber mallets, but it was a bit frustrating.
I will bite my teeth in the future and use higher quality plywood (e. g. Baltic birch)and/or pre-
Cut the paper closer to the size of the part-
This will enable me to deal with a smaller war zone.
I used a very cheap drawer slide in the middle drawer on the left.
If you look closely at the side view, it looks curved.
But the problem is that the slides are a bit distorted! .
Once something is available, the drawer is aligned correctly.
I should replace this slide and not waste time on hardware in the future.