How to Build a Home Office

This guide will show you how to spend $300 in materials and 5 hours creating a home office for a variety of room sizes.
Keep in mind that you need to modify the workspace to accommodate the space you have.
We hope this guide is interesting and a powerful motivation for you to look at things in a different way than usual, this is achieved through the perspective of adaptive reuse and critical misuse.
The hollow door panel is \"wrong\" in this guide, not the door, but the desk, shelf and structure.
The doors are an effective material because they are cheap, lightweight, but sturdy.
Adaptive reuse and critical misuse are all focused on the idea of using, and more specifically, the idea of using it in a different way than originally expected.
The second key element of these two terms is the word use.
For us, use is equally important in design.
A lot of times, it\'s good that people do theory or speculation without doing, producing, or implementing these ideas, but for us, the actual implementation of the use, in addition to these ideas, is the same
By adjusting and reusing the underused available space at home, as well as the severe abuse of hollow door panels, we were able to generate a huge workspace with multiple long-term benefits.
We saved $20,000.
Create more time with family at 00 a year, reduce our commute to almost none, all done at less than $300.
00 and completed in less than 5 hours.
We hope you will like it.
From the practice of the Metropolitan Architecture Office, how to build the hollow core is very important to complete the project.
The edge of the hollow core door has a wooden frame with a cardboard honeycomb inside.
Then, the front and back are covered with thin veneer.
It is important to remember that the cardboard core is exposed when passing through the door.
Show that one side inside the door should always hide or face the wall so that this side is not seen when the office is done. A (2)2x6B (2)2x6C (2)2x6D (2)
Hollow core door cut into E size (3)2x6, w/ (2)45 degree cuts)F (3)
Full-size hollow core door (
Can be cut to fit the room size)G (1)
H by size (3)
Hollow core door with cut (4)
5x5 steel angle with screw hole (7)
3x3 steel angle with screw hole (4)
Hollow core door cut by size (
Cut length according to room size)
See images for illustrations of piecesA (10)2-6x 6-
Use 8 hollow core doors.
Other supplies: thin thread 6x1 drywall screw, thick thread 2 1/2 drywall screw, drywall hanger, zipper, wood glue, polyurethane (for finishing)
, 8 rail lighting with plug, all sizes are displayed as maximum.
There should be at least two layers of polyurethane coating on the working surface.
For best results, pre-
Drill all screw holes.
Tools required: Measuring brush or RollerSandpaperScrew (saw or reel saw drill screwdriver tape measure (1)C piece and (2)
A piece on the wall
The top edge of A and C should be 2-
Above the 4 th floor.
For proper support, these parts should be screwed into wall pegs or drywall hangers.
The distance between screws should not exceed 32.
The 5 1/2 wide side of each piece is to be screwed to the side of the wall.
View the plan for the next page.
All steps except step 4 and step 10 use thick line 2 1/2 drywall screws.
The image on the right shows the first 3 pieces mounted on the wall.
The dotted line on Firstimage represents the left wall.
This is true for all images in the following steps.
Please pay attention to the size range on the left and right.
The right side may only change to 6 and the left side may only change 1-0.
Changing the range of both will determine how many rooms each table has.
Screw the 2E piece into the bottom of the wall, then screw the 2B piece into the 2E piece and install the piece to the wall in step 1.
Repeat the exact steps above and make sure there are 2-
From the center of 1B to the other part of 1B.
On the right side wall, repeat the top steps with a 3C sheet instead of a 3B sheet.
The 45 degree cut on the workpiece E should be parallel to the wall at the bottom, and the workpiece B or C at the top.
Look at the plan for the next step.
Please note the size range on the left and right side as well as the top and bottom.
The right side can only change to 6 at the top and bottom, and the left side can only change to 1-0.
Changing the range of both will determine how many rooms each table has.
The top of Piece B and Piece C must be aligned with the top of piece. Pre-
Drilling and screws (2)
The following F pieces are supported.
As shown in the figure, both F pieces should be screwed into the corner.
The following figure shows that the end support of 2 requires at least 3/4 of the area on the support B.
See the plan for the next step.
Connect G to D using bracket K and 1 screw.
Make sure that the bracket K is attached to the edge as shown in the figure to ensure that the screws enter the structural part of the door.
Connect Block F to D as described above.
Join the newly formed component in step 4 with 2 1/2 screws, which consists of D and G blocks and becomes the intermediate support B. The edge of the G block should be aligned with the edge of the B block
Join the newly formed assembly in step 4 with 2 1/2 screws, which consists of D and F blocks, intermediate support Parts C and.
View the plan for the next page.
Align the edges and screw the H block into one wall and the other into the other.
The edge of the middle H sheet is aligned with the edge of the G sheet and the B sheet.
Please see the photo details below.
The middle H is screwed from below through the B block below. Use (2)2-1/2 screws.
The short side of each H piece should be against the back wall.
The middle part H is a bit tricky and may require temporary support until the top cross part is in place. 2-
1/2 screws will be used for this step. Place (2)
As shown in the figure, there are L pieces on H pieces.
Shelf L in place (
Starting from the previous step)
, Fix the bracket J in the appropriate position to support the bottom of the shelf L, marking the bracket position.
Remove the shelf and fix the bracket to the wall.
The Wall bracket J should be screwed into the Wall @ Wall studs or attached to the Wall using a drywall hanger.
Remaining plans and partial views (2)
L pieces are glued or screwed (3)H pieces.
Screw a bracket K into the front of the L piece
Screw the second bracket K into the L-piece front in the middle of the entire office.
Screw the third bracket K into the front of the Part L
In order to support the rail light evenly, the bracket K should be spaced.
When using the K bracket, use the thin line 1 drywall screw.
Attach 8 long rail lights to the stand K with a zipper.
The zipper wraps around the track through the holes in the bracket K as shown in the following figure.
If you have a ceiling mounted fixture in your room, you can buy an adapter for you to plug the track light into the fixture.
Just tell us your requirements, we can do more than you can imagine.
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