Assess unfinished furniture from all unfinished furniture of different types and styles, how do you know which furniture is worth buying?
Once you find an unfinished good piece of furniture, how do you upset it and give it that antique feel?
Here are the questions we will answer in the next few pages.
We will start with square one and tell you what to look for when choosing unfinished furniture.
Unfortunately, price is the first indicator.
You are really paid for this furniture.
Before you buy any unfinished work, compare the store to find out what is available.
Most of the unfinished furniture is pine, but some are made of other wood.
No matter which type of wood is used, the quality and workmanship of the wood will be very different.
Take a good look when you find a piece of furniture you like.
Is the wood smooth or rough?
Cheap furniture is usually difficultstreaked;
The more expensive parts are better-quality wood.
Which state is the wood?
Cheap furniture can be raw and may have rough edges and deep saw ditches.
Good unfinished furniture is usually polished and ready to be sorted out.
Another important consideration is the quality of furniture.
Most of the unfinished furniture is assembled with a DingTalk powered by a power DingTalk gun.
Joints may not be safe unless bound carefully.
How strong is this piece?
Is its leg shaking, or is part of it not well fixed?
You can fix loose joints, but it\'s hard to save something that doesn\'t match well or falls off completely.
Are the doors and drawers aligned correctly and are they working well?
If they don\'t, is it because of the wrong size of their opening, or is it because of loose or inaccurate fixing of hardware or drawer rails?
You can handle mechanical problems, but parts that are too big or too small can never be adjusted.
Check all moving parts to make sure they are cut, connected and assembled correctly.
Sorting out can do a lot of things, but can\'t remake an inferior piece.
The style of furniture is also important.
Look at the style.
Do you like that line?
Can it do the job you want?
Do not be satisfied with furniture with wrong size or style;
It\'s not worth doing something you don\'t really want.
On the other hand, a piece of furniture that is basically correct can be given to any character you like with different hardware, decorative styling, decor or special finishes.
Before you make a final decision, evaluate the work you have to do and prepare the work to be done ---
Clean the knots and sap pockets, rearrange the legs, rearrange the drawers, repair the cracks, smooth the edges of the pieces, and replace the hardware.
How much time and effort does it take?
How much hardware and decor do you need to add?
Is the size and style appropriate?
Do you like wood?
You bought the unfinished thing, how much did you save?
It all comes down to a basic question: is it worth it?
If you choose carefully, it is.
No matter how carefully you shop, there may be some problems with the unfinished furniture.
Joints may be loose;
Moving parts can get stuck.
There are usually several knots on the wood, and if they are not sealed, they bleed on the finish.
There are almost always rough edges or saw marks.
Take the time to deal with these issues before you get the wood dirty.
Your results will prove that your efforts are correct.
Loose carpentry and poor assembly: the first step in handling unfinished furniture is to make sure it is solid.
Check the joints to find out the weak links;
Drawers may need to be tightened again in particular.
If the DingTalk or other fasteners are solid, it may not be necessary to re-insert them, but if they are not
Center or look less secure, reinforce them by opening nails next to them.
Drill the guide hole for the nail to prevent the wood from cracking.
If the staples are loose, pull them out with pliers and pull the joints up.
Fill nail holes with wood filling.
Loose legs, crossbars, arms or spindles should be re-planned.
Test all parts of the part to make sure they are safe and re-fix or re-fix any loose parts.
They should work well if there are drawers.
Check the drawer guide inside the frame and the runner at the bottom edge of the drawer.
They should be square, firmly fixed, with no protruding nails.
If necessary, re-fix the guide or runner and use the nail wrap counter to hold the prominent nail head.
Knots and sap bags: check carefully for sap flow or resin-bead-like spots on the wood surface.
Scrape away the hardened resin and clean the knot and sap pocket with the fat on the soft cloth.
If the big knot is loose, remove them all;
Then apply the Carpenter\'s glue on the edge and replace the knot with a surface flush.
If the summary is loose-pin knots --
Remove them thoroughly and fill the holes with wooden plastic or water putty.
Seal all knots and sap pockets with 1-1 coatpound-
Cut white shellac;
If the shellac is fully absorbed, apply two or more coatings as needed to fully seal the knot.
Rough edges: smooth the edges to correct the surface roughness.
If there are black spots or gaps on the edges, fill them with wood filling or water putty, and then polish the filling smooth.
The edge of the square should be very slightly rounded before completion;
Smooth, round them with fine
Sandpaper on the grinding block.
No flat edges;
Cutting will split the wood.
Saw slots and shards: dull saw blades leave gaps and shards and you will most likely find these problems anywhere the wood is cut or connected.
If the gaps are shallow, you can polish them out.
In most cases, you have to fill them with wood plastic and then polish the filling smooth.
Now, you are ready to start the process of torture wood, which will be introduced on the next page.