I have been live edge (
Bark or natural edges on one or more sides)slab tables.
My wife found an \"L\"-shaped live edge cedar table for sale on Facebook.
The person who bought the tablet increased the Ikea table legs and completed the table top.
I love this table but I want to change something . . . . . . How two things are connected, the design and finish of the legs.
Okay, I just want wood.
The man who built the table took a board and cut it in the middle, reversing both ends (
Wider root and branch ends)
Join them with two 45 degree angle cuts.
This makes the table area at the joint larger, but there is no interesting function (
Cracks and grains)
From one side to the other.
One of the existing 45 degree angles is cut to a right angle and another (root end)
Modified with ogee curve.
Since the plate is too thick, any of my saws can\'t be used, so cut the ogee curve with a reciprocating saw.
This requires a lot of work on the Sander.
The 90 degree joint is then re-cut to arrange the cracks and grains neatly.
The two plates are connected with two Tite joint fasteners from Rockler.
Don\'t bother to buy shovel bits that are used to drill holes.
Bit is designed to be centered in the template, but the cut is not very good.
Just use a shovel or forstner bit and be careful when you put it in the middle.
The thickness of the desktop is inconsistent and I don\'t like the yellow color of the finish, so I took it to a local store where they run it through their large planner and keep the thickness consistent. 5 inches (
Less than $20).
I polished the table with a few different sandpapers.
Starting from 100 sand, 120 sand, 180 sand, and finally ending with 220 sand.
I tried several different types of finishes and chose polyurethane as it kept the color of the wood better than any other material.
I like satin instead of highlights.
Apply a three-layer coating between each coating and apply 220 sanding.
I leave the bark on the edge of the wood and apply polyurethane with a spray can so that it can penetrate the cracks and cracks.
Shortly after the slate was taken home, the bugs began to pop out of the bark.
They left interesting holes and trails on the bark, but were not very popular at home.
I took the slate to the shed and detonated two bug bombs. Problem solved.
I wanted some more industrialized legs so I used the inch black tube.
Because the table is 13 to 15 inch wide, the legs are designed as reclining brackets so that there will be more gaps in the legs under the table.
The use of the pipe provides the opportunity to integrate the electrical box into the frame for LED power supplies for sockets and lamps and shelf lighting.
Most of the pipes are purchased online (Zoro, Ebay)
There are also some local hardware stores (Home Depot).
It\'s cheaper online and they have better options in inches.
Ebay is used for one or three-
The installation of the lamp.
I tried to calculate the length required for an even angle, but after assembly I had to make some adjustments with the short tube attached to the foot flange.
Felt is added to the bottom of the foot flange so that they do not scratch the floor.
Note: I found that I needed a tube of odd length and went to Home Depot to cut it.
They said they couldn\'t cut the tube short.
I suggest they use a joint fitting on both tubes to make it long enough to fit into the machine.
They thanked me for my thoughts.
This is the design of the leg.
The height of the table is 31 inch.
The first leg is the hind leg of the wire entering, 2)
The middle leg is at 90 degrees angle, where the lights are connected, 3)
The right leg supports the end with the ogee curve.
Adjustment is easy due to too many joints.
Since everything is tied together and screwed into the wood, they don\'t have to be completely nervous.
The pipe between the legs will depend on the two 16 inch pipes used in the front to connect the junction box to each leg, and two 18 inch pipes are used on the side.
There are two junction boxes inside the leg frame.
Because of all the angles created by the \"tee\", the legs have to be disassembled and the wires go through when everything is put back together.
The front junction box is double-backed-to-
Keep the LED power supply in the rear box on one side and keep the socket and switch on the other side.
The switch supplies power to the LED power supply for lamp and shelf lighting.
One of the sockets also has a USB power outlet.
Another junction box under the keyboard shelf has two sockets.
Each junction box requires a reducer of 3/4 to 1/2 on both sides of the box.
Next, an LED light was designed for the desktop.
Use a grinder to cut the slots into two 12 inch pipes and install them above the middle leg.
Connect the legs and lights together by bolts on the table top.
Originally used was a straight tube that stretched out from the table. The three-
Road fittings made in China are not square, which causes one arm of the lamp to drop from the other.
Add two 45 degree accessories to adjust the level of the arm. A three-way switch (on-off-on)
Control lights and shelf lights are allowed (
Lights or lights and shelves).
The LED strip is hot glued to the wood strip and the wood strip is cut to fit inside the pipe to prevent the LED strip from hanging outside the groove.
The shelf light is an LED strip and is hot glued to the groove at the bottom of the table.
After the leg rack was built, the socket was wired, the desktop was installed, and I realized that the table was not wide enough to accommodate the keyboard and monitor.
Therefore, an inch black tube frame supporting keyboard racks and displays is designed.
The pipe frame is attached to the bottom of the table top and keyboard shelf.
If I had thought of this in the first place, I would have integrated this frame into the leg frame.
All pipes are wiped with mineral spirits to remove the rust-proof oil and sprayed with satin polyurethane.
Galvanized pipes are not used.
In addition to the keyboard shelf, another shelf was added for additional storage.
The shelves are made of live edge plates purchased at Rockler.
To accommodate the legs through the rack hole, drill holes using the forstner drill bit.
The back of the keyboard shelf integrates a wire and power storage area with a hinge channel.
The shelf extension part of the back of the shelf and the wire is connected using pocket hole screws (Kreg jig).
Some lengths are lost when the table is reconfigured, but the increase in the keyboard rack and display stand makes up for the loss. Next steps -
Make pencil holders, drink coasters, etc. . .