The pool is such a special restaurant that when customers walk out of the room they may wonder what is wrong with themselves.
But they\'re right.
Eating there is like dating someone who looks great, giving you gifts, taking you on a trip, trying to convince you until the day you find gifts and tickets credited to your credit card, you will be happy.
The appeal of the restaurant and some of the problems come from its architecture.
The swimming pool is half of the old Four Seasons restaurant in Midtown, located on the north side of the seoer building, with a square marble swimming pool in the center.
The other end is the grill and I reviewed it in August.
Philip Johnson designed the entire building with a very detailed, rigorous geometric understatement, making it one of the few interior designs in a landmark-protected city.
The main food group, which runs the grill and swimming pool, got inspiration from Johnson, giving the two restaurants a very different style.
There is a meat on the grill with spectacular walnuts on it
Mid-Century focus menu supervised by Mario Capone.
With the help of the Rich Torrisi, the pool offers seafood in a contemporary style.
It is vital that the main food group and the owners of the building decide that each restaurant should have its own style of bar.
The grill is already available.
For swimming pools that are not available, they commandeered, redecorated and renamed the mezzanine.
I found by phone that the new pool lounge was built without the permission of the landmark protection board required by law.
On September, the committee convened a public hearing by the owner of the building, RFR Holding.
One application was delayed and involved three unapproved main facilities: woven cotton bars and wall coverings, reception at the lounge and lobby near East 52 Street, wool and Silver lines. (
Sheldon Werdiger, director of marketing and design development for RFR Holding, said in a statement that because furniture is not covered in the landmark name, \"We believe that the new reception and bar in the lounge are additional facilities that can be easily removed without the need for LPC supervision. ”)
But you don\'t need to be an architectural historian to see that they all don\'t fit the international style.
Large but not elegant reception at the airport;
Someone will ask if you are checking in your luggage.
But more seriously, the pool lounge broke down.
Although the owner of the building argued that the Four Seasons Hotel used the mezzanine for private activities and storage, it was open for restaurant seating every time I ate in the old pool room.
The table above can see the lower restaurant and the pool itself, which is the best in the house.
Now, the mezzanine looks like it has moved from other buildings to the trailer with a pushpin attached.
Its blue scheme and round decoration
Johnson\'s right angles and natural tones inspired the furniture war.
When the lounge is full, it is distracting. When it’s half-
It often seems empty, and it is as faintly visible as the stage set waiting for the actor to appear.
Anyway, it absorbs energy from the restaurant, which requires everything it can get.
The landmark protection board is waiting for a response from the landlord before ruling on the new fixtures.
One change that is not challenging is to remove large pots from the four corners of the pool.
When the four seasons Open in 1959, these trees change with the arrival of new spring, summer, autumn or winter.
The trees break the line of sight so you never see the whole space at once.
Now you look around and see an uninterrupted sea of people.
The subtle dynamics of Johnson\'s launch put pressure on the cooking and restaurant staff to animate the room.
They are not yet fully successful.
The problem with the pool does not include the ingredients, which is spectacular.
A few drops of olive oil under the ice, the sweetness of the spot prawn made me happy and trembling.
Trio of Flash
Grilled Hokkaido scallops, the Pacific mackerel fish with his skin scratched, and the raw amber jack under the small cell of the finger lime all imply
Torrisi can run an amazing sushi restaurant.
Whenever I eat sea urchins, my eyes roll back to my head.
In the appetizer, it is arranged on a scones bread made of mustard oil and small green apples.
In another case, its leaves are divided into an ice bowl to eat, and, if you wish, over blini, to eat with cream and leeks
My favorite is eggs, toast or cream potatoes cooked with duck meat. (
Serve caviar and trout fish in the same way. )Mr.
Torrisi\'s approach is to become luxurious with careful care --
Seafood, a little less.
A beautiful illustration is marinated king salmon, two long, very delicious strips, paired with a potato seasoned with mustard, scallions and dill.
The other one is any of the whole fish.
The skin caught on the diamond Horn in Portugal is scorched with a satisfactory burst sound and served with a simple lemon sauce.
Like the sole of Dover, it is lifted from the skeleton by a slim captain (
They are all slim)
The man in Tom Ford\'s suit
One night, five captains in five suits picked five soles for five diners at a table next to me.
It looks like a scene in the 11 th of the ocean without a final clip.
But some of the more refined dishes were not impressive.
I don\'t know how the striped bass of banana pepper and \"mole spice\" gets dull, but it does. Coconut-
The orange sauce sounds like a great sauce for lobster, but it\'s barely added except for the sweetness that lobster doesn\'t need.
The ingredients for chopped Spanish cold dishes on an actual Spanish cold dish puddle are too complicated (
Why not contact cold dishes? )and too plain (
No Taste of cucumbers or tomatoes).
This is a huge improvement in the last few years of the four seasons.
But it doesn\'t make you feel like you\'re in the hands of one of the best chefs in the city.
I think Torrisi is.
Even at the best of times, food rarely reaches the technical splendor or boldness of green curry mushrooms --
Flying fish or Vietnamese-
He put seasoned chicken legs on the menu in the dirty French restaurant.
If his cooking in the pool has some shake-up, the things on the plate can reach the best part of the original building and help make up for the decoration mistakes.
That\'s exactly what happened when Stephanie Prida\'s dessert arrived. Ms.
Until a few months ago, Prida was a pastry chef in Los Gatos Manresa, California.
, There\'s a trick to combine flavors that seem to get more fun as you move on, like under the squeeze of a small amount of sherry vinegar, A pink with shaved plum and bitter or coconut pie and fluffy
Grapefruit Mousse is caught in the thinnest matcha Shabbat.
On 1811, bottles of yquem Castle were kept in a glass wine room next to the entrance to the pool, where they gave off the beautiful amber glow that the server liked to point out.
Enjoy it when you walk in, because unless you\'re ready to spend at least $95, it\'s as close as you drink any kind of sweet wine, the cheapest glass price.
The wine list is filled with exquisite wine bottles, but the most noteworthy thing is that the breeze on the wine list is gentle and lacks attention to the normal budget.
More than 30 of dozens of sparkling wines cost more than $1,000.
Only one less than $90.
This is quite stressful for customers who have already paid $39 to $74 for the main course.
Grill/pool branch available to restaurant staff.
In the pool they were booked, poised, respectful and seemed instructed not to show any warmth or wisdom.
Compared to the person who loves to talk, the jokey character on the grill is ready to burn something when the hat falls, and the server in the pool is the cardboard character in a custom suit.
The main food group is not afraid to climb the top spot.
So I don\'t want to suggest that the pool needs more personality and drama.
If they think it will help, these guys can store the pool with live sharks.
But the restaurant needs something because at these prices, things that can be limited and simple seem to start to be complicated robberies.
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